That means that between 10mL and 25mL are left on the film. For 500mL of water poured in my tank containing either 1 roll of 120 or two rolls of 35mm, only between 475mL and 490mL come out of the tank. To know how much the developer is potentially diluted a simple experiment of measuring how much of the pre-wash water actually comes out allows to estimate what is left on the film and in the tank. I was a bit skeptic about the dilution issue at first but with a little experiment and calculation, I am now convinced and that is the reason why I do not pre-wash when developing C-41 film. I would not mind the extra step but the dilution can really become an issue when reusing the developer over and over again. For C-41 I am not sure which films have anti- halation layers. The disadvantages with doing a pre-wash are (i) it is an extra step and (ii) the small amount of water left on the film and in the tank when pouring the developers slightly dilutes the developer. When developing black and white with one-shot developer I typically do a pre-wash for 120 film which has an anti- halation layer. The benefits of a pre-wash are (i) to get the tank and film at the right temperature before adding the developer and (ii) wash the anti-halation layer of the film (or any other coating) if the film has one. Overall the density of the negative are really really close. The pictures on this test roll are not exactly the same so it is hard to compare very small variations. The top 2 strips were developed with the Jobo processor (continuous agitation) and the two strips on the bottom were developed with manual agitation (15 second of twisting and then 3 inversions every minutes). The picture on the right shows the result. To check this, I made my own experiment and developed two pieces of the same film at the same time, using the same chemical and same 30☌ temperature but one in the Jobo processor and the other one manually agitated with my usual agitation scheme of 15 sec twisting and 3 inversions every minutes. This is not so much of a problem when using lower temperatures and longer times. The thing is that when using 38☌ the development is so quick that agitation needs to be perfect in order to get even negatives. The instructions are written mainly for using a rotary processor so it is easy to jump to the conclusion that you need a processor for C-41, however, this is not the case at all. Temperature: why use 30☌ instead of 38☌ ? Bellow are the reasons / explanations / discussions / experiments for the different choices. I would use a different strategy if doing higher volume or professional work. I believe that it is a good process for me or any body developing low volume manually. So far, that is the process that I have come to and I get results which I am happy with. I have not decided what the best strategy is as far as some possible drying marks vs some possible scratches but that is not specific to color negative film :-) I do not use and squeegee but sometimes remove some of the liquid from the film by squeezing it between two fingers. Stabilizer at 30☌ for 1'00" with slow continuous agitation (with twisting the stick).Repeat the last if the wash water is not clear (with some film it is necessary). 20 inversions, let it sit one minute + dump. Tap the tank and put it back in the 30☌ water bath after every agitation. Blix at 30☌ for 6'00" with agitation the first 15s (with twisting the stick) and 10s (3 inversions) every minute.Stop bath at 30☌ for 0'30" with continuous agitation (with twisting the stick).I dispose of the chemistry after the 10th batch. To account for the Developer being re-used and slightly diluted, after the 5th batch developed with the same 1L of developer, I increase the time to 9'00" instead of 8'00".
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